There's no wine quite as perfect for the Australian heat as a rosé. I'd even go so far as to say it's better than beer.
Don't believe me?
Served
nice and chilled, it's every bit as refreshing on a warm day.
Actually, I would go so far as to say this is one of life's greatest
pleasures. Like a beer, rosé has some crisp acidity to quench a thirst
and is deliciously dry – not as sweet as it looks.
Today's rosés are nothing like the ones our
parents guzzled in the 70s, but in some circles are still tainted with
this legacy. In the US, where the wine-drinking population is less
mature than in Australia, they're still shunned by all but the savviest,
chicest drinkers. Here, rosés are a serious beverage. Don't be put off
by the pink hue: this is a drink with brawn.
They're also a lot more food-friendly than beer. A social beast, rosé
goes with any sort of food imaginable: barbecued meats (red, white and
sausages), salamis and cheeses, middle eastern meze, tapas and Spanish
flavours, even spicy Asian meals. If rosé were a person, it would be the
exuberant friend who gets on with absolutely everybody in any social
group and is always terrific fun to be around.
Rosé is a wine to drink outdoors for lunches in the sun and drinks at
sunset when the colours in the sky match those inside your glass.
They're easy on the alcohol and light-bodied guzzlers, but they don't
compromise on flavour.
Rosés are made from red grapes in a white wine method, so they taste
like a lighter version of a red wine – tannins and all. There's a bit
of spice on the palate with a primary flavour of rosehips or cherry
fruits or even raspberry. They don't have as much grunt as a big red
though, so if red wines usually give you a headache roses can be a good
compromise: you get the flavour without the weighty whack over the head.
Then there are the gorgeous aromas: sunshine, warm earth and the
scent of herbs on the breeze. If Cezanne's paintings of the south of
France had a taste, this would be it.
Rosés offer instant gratification: they don't need cellaring or
maturing and are such a pleasurable, uncomplicated drink. Lively,
friendly and impossible to drink without smiling: rosé is truly the
happy juice.
And they're cheap. You'll get a great one for around $15 and rarely more than $20, which gives you another reason to smile.
If you've been reluctant up until now to give it a go, take a bottle on a picnic or try one this weekend with a barbecue.
Turkey Flat make
theirs from a combination of grapes, including grenache for tannin,
which gives the wine a bit of spine. It has a lovely pigmentation from
time spent sitting on the skins. Mistletoe
in the Hunter Valley make some barrel-fermented ones a savoury European
style; these taste of oak and really come into their own with food.
Another Aussie rosé made in the French style is the almost tawny Dominique Portet from the Yarra Valley. Down the road is Yering Station and their coppery rosé made from pinot noir.
A terrifically minty rosé with real length is the Rosato from Amulet Winery
in Beechworth. As the Italian name might suggest, its principal
ingredient is Sangiovese (the grape of Chianti), alongside Shiraz and
Cabernet.
Or you could experiment with some Spanish, Italian or French ones –
they tend to be more savoury than the the locals and are serious food
wines.
Which rosés do you enjoy drinking?
This post originally appeared in The Sydney Morning Herald.
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